In the heart of London's Mayfair district, just steps from the legendary Savile Row, a quiet revolution is unfolding in the world of high-end tailoring. A new generation of artisans is challenging the long-standing traditions of this historic street, making custom-made suits more inclusive, approachable, and exciting—especially for women. At the forefront is HAX Tailoring, a boutique studio founded in 2023 by the talented 27-year-old Hattie Glendenning. What started as a passion ignited during her teenage years has blossomed into a thriving business that's attracting a diverse clientele, from first-time professionals to high-profile figures, all seeking garments that fit perfectly and feel empowering.
Savile Row has long been synonymous with impeccable men's suiting, a place where Hollywood icons and global leaders have commissioned their wardrobes for decades. But in recent years, the demand for bespoke and made-to-measure options for women has surged, breathing fresh life into an industry rooted in centuries-old craftsmanship. Glendenning's story is particularly inspiring: as a teenager, she spent weekends immersed in the world of Savile Row, learning the ropes and dreaming of creating something more welcoming. Today, her studio—tucked away in a sunlit space rented from a renowned cloth merchant—offers a relaxed alternative to the sometimes intimidating atmosphere of traditional tailoring houses.
What sets HAX apart is its focus on accessibility without compromising quality. While full bespoke suiting on the Row can easily run into five figures, Glendenning emphasizes made-to-order and more affordable custom options, using premium British fabrics sourced mainly from mills in Yorkshire's Huddersfield region. These cloths, often reimagined from historic archives dating back to the 1800s, form the foundation of every piece. "The fabric is everything," enthusiasts in the industry often say, and at HAX, it's selected with care to ensure durability, comfort, and that unmistakable luxurious drape.
The process begins with an intimate consultation, where clients discuss everything from lifestyle needs to personal style preferences. Measurements are taken meticulously—far more than off-the-rack alterations allow—and conversations delve into details like silhouette, structure, and feel. Do you want a sharp, structured shoulder for boardroom presence, or something softer and more fluid for everyday elegance? Options range from classic power suits with broad laps and cinched waists to playful, retro-inspired designs like flared trousers or bold patterns. One standout creation? A vibrant, '70s-vibe checkered ensemble that channels fun and individuality. No two garments are alike, allowing creativity to flourish in ways that mass-produced fashion simply can't match.
Clients span a broad spectrum: young women preparing for their first big job interview, brides seeking unique wedding attire (including suits for non-traditional ceremonies), and seasoned professionals looking to refresh their wardrobes. While the studio welcomes men as well—crafting everything from wedding suits to everyday essentials—it's the women's offerings that have garnered the most attention. Many describe the experience as transformative: a perfectly fitted jacket that accommodates curves, trousers that elongate without gaps, or a coat that moves with you rather than against you. It's not just clothing; it's armor that boosts confidence in a world where ready-to-wear often falls short for female bodies.
This shift toward women's tailoring isn't happening in isolation. Savile Row itself is evolving, with more female-led or women-focused houses emerging. Pioneers like Kathryn Sargent, who in 2016 became the first woman to open her own tailoring house on the Row after rising to master tailor status, paved the way. Others, such as Daisy Knatchbull with her women-exclusive atelier or Ruby Slevin at Banshee of Savile Row, are pushing boundaries further, blending traditional techniques with modern aesthetics. Established names like Huntsman and Henry Poole have expanded their ladieswear departments, recognizing that women are increasingly drawn to the precision and longevity of custom garments.
To understand this momentum, it's worth diving into Savile Row's rich history. The street dates back to the 1730s, developed as part of the grand Burlington Estate. Initially a residential area for aristocrats and military officers, it earned its name from Lady Dorothy Savile, wife of the 3rd Earl of Burlington—an ironic twist given its later dominance by men's fashion. By the 19th century, skilled tailors from northern England migrated south to cater to the elite's demand for perfectly fitted uniforms and civilian wear. Houses like Henry Poole (credited with inventing the dinner jacket) and Gieves & Hawkes set the standard, attracting royalty, politicians, and entertainers.
Women's involvement, though, has been slower to evolve. Early exceptions existed—Hardy Amies, opening in the mid-20th century, famously dressed royalty and blended Row craftsmanship with couture elements. But for much of history, women worked behind the scenes as seamstresses or "kippers" (pairs of female tailors protecting each other in male-dominated workshops). It wasn't until recent decades that women claimed prominent roles as cutters, designers, and owners.
Today, this inclusivity reflects broader changes in fashion and society. Women in power—CEOs, politicians, creatives—are seeking attire that commands respect without conforming to outdated norms. Bespoke tailoring offers that: endless customization, from subtle tweaks for comfort to bold statements like vibrant colors or unconventional cuts. And in an era of fast fashion's environmental toll, custom pieces promote sustainability—garments made to last a lifetime, repaired rather than replaced.
Glendenning's approach embodies this new era: collaborative, relaxed, and client-centered. She stresses the emotional side of tailoring—the way a well-fitted suit can make someone stand taller, feel more assured. For many women accustomed to compromising on store-bought clothes, discovering made-to-measure is revelatory. It's a return to historical norms, too; before mass production, custom clothing was standard for women of means.
The rise of female tailors is also supporting the Row's survival amid economic challenges. While men's bespoke remains core, women's demand is growing faster in some segments, attracting younger clients and international attention. Studios like HAX bridge the gap, offering entry points at more attainable prices while upholding British milling traditions.
Looking ahead, the future of Savile Row seems brighter and more diverse. With trailblazers like Glendenning encouraging more women to enter the trade—sharing knowledge, referring clients, and fostering community—the street is shedding its stuffy reputation. It's becoming a place where anyone, regardless of gender, can commission a garment that's truly their own.
Whether you're drawn to timeless wool suits for work, whimsical designs for special occasions, or something entirely unique, the message is clear: bespoke tailoring isn't just for the old guard anymore. It's for the modern individual seeking quality, fit, and a touch of personal magic. In the hands of innovative young artisans, Savile Row's legacy is not only preserved—it's being reinvented, one perfectly stitched seam at a time.
